I have managed to become skilled at how to overcome some of the not-so-pleasant aspects of owning that modern puppy, taking into consideration I have been breeding Labrador Retrievers for discontinuance to fifteen years,. So many times I have new owners call me in absolute despair wanting to know how on earth they can gain their newest family member to pee or poop ANYWHERE except on the floor of their home. For me, it is a devastating statistic that the number one reason puppies find themselves in shelters is due to house training issues. This is such a simple obstacle to overcome, so long as you know how. So, how do we sustain you and your pup from any more accidents that may be starting to stretch your friendship?

House training puppies can be a monumental task if the owner is naive of what specifically is required to have their pup behaving in an acceptable way. Think of it for a minute from the pups perspective…They have just arrive from a litter where their mother has fed, cleaned and disciplined them. Life was pretty easy there, they could mess about with their siblings and pee or poop wherever they liked AND (within the first two weeks of being born) mother would clean the mess up! Your pups mother would also lick and groom the pup clean of everything that stuck to their small body.

Then, you came along. You and your pup have arrived succor home…Minus the other litter mates and mother. Suddenly, the environment has changed, the social group has changed and the rules are SO unlike to what your pup was musty to. Your life has also altered now. You have a little body that needs guidance and boundaries for it to understand what is needed in order to live harmoniously inside your home.

The only truly winning way to teach your pup how to be house trained is (drum-roll please…) for YOU to be trained! Nope, I don’t mean that we have to train you to go potty and I’m determined you are house trained by now…However, if you feel you need a revision on your own house breaking needs feel free to
apply it to yourself

Similar to you and I, pups and dogs in general are creatures of habit. They flourish on regularity and thrive with
repetitive actions. If you wanted to yell your dog the instruction to sit, you would use that instruction every time you requested it of him. You wouldn’t say Grab a seat and then say Pull up a pew along with a myriad of
other phrases if all you wanted was for him to simply sit. Using that one term over and over will allow your dog to learn faster and with more success. The same is true for toilet training your pup or dog. If your pup learns that you are radiant, constant and straightforward to understand this will pave the way for everything your pup needs to know. If, however, he finds that you are frightening, angry and contradictory you may look forward to a life with a dog that has no clear direction or boundaries on behaviour, and certainly no real success in house training him or her.

What really is valuable to your pup or dog learning for life, is knowing the exact commands and having the correct
environment for your pup to go potty. If you are able to be taught some wonderful techniques to use, pick up on the signals your pup gives you and most of all…BE CONSISTENT, your pup will most certainly prosper under your care.

Remember, every oversight teaches your puppy the wrong habit. Knowing what tools you must have for successful training will have your battle already partly won. I constantly refer my new puppy owners to my website below for a fast and inexpensive guaranteed way to combat the potty accidents, and to accomplish a rewarding and satisfying connection with your pup for life. I wish you years of enjoyment and puppy potty training triumph!

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When a 2-month-old baby, Zane Alen Earles, was recently attacked and killed by a puppy, people were horrified. Puppies are generally associated with words like cute and cuddly. Although the full details of the unusual case are aloof emerging as of this writing, what is known is that the two dogs at the home were a Labrador puppy and a Pug. The baby was left alone in a swing and adults were at the home but no one appeared to be in the room. Afterward, the young mother (17 years old) required medical assistance and even some of the emergency workers needed befriend dealing with the trauma (see sources at end of article).

This was not the only time a puppy seriously attacked a baby

When tragedies like this happen, questions naturally arise about how often puppies attack as well as how to prevent other puppies from seriously mauling or killing babies or young children. People obtain it hard to absorb that puppies can – and do – seriously injure or kill babies. Happily, such incidents are uncommon but this is not the first case where a puppy attacked a baby. In another case back in 2006, a puppy chewed off a baby girl’s toes while her parents were sleeping next to her. The month old girl was treated at a Louisiana hospital and had to undergo surgery. Her toes could not be saved, according to news reports at the time.

In case the recent news of the St. Petersburg puppy attack has you jittery about puppies and babies living in the same house, here is some basic info to shed light on the reality of puppy and dog attacks on babies and how to prevent them:

Although the attack on Zane Alen Earles was not the first portray of a puppy seriously attacking a baby, such events are not common. Many babies grow up around puppies without being seriously injured, mauled or killed. According to the American Veterinary Medical Association Task Force on Canine Aggression and Human-Canine Interactions, the actual numbers injured by dog bites per year are impossible to pinpoint in exact numbers. To gain things a bit tricker, if a person trips and falls while fleeing from a dog (even a dog that isn’t about to bite) is that classified as a dog attack? For these reasons, the information can vary but some studies indicate that an estimated $102.4 million dollars a year may be spent treating dog or puppy bites. Again, about half of those bites happen to babies or children.

If half of dog bite victims are children, why is this the case?

Babies and children may accidentally or intentionally act in ways that threaten dogs. Also, dogs are pack animals and babies and children are part of that pack. I have some personal experience with this because we have owned dachshunds, a breed surprisingly listed as among the most aggressive in a unusual inspect of dachshund owners and their reports of dog bites. Our dog had a tendency to bite, although it did not bite family members.

Also, small babies can appear similar in appearance to a little, vulnerable animal and be mistaken for prey. For whatever reason, it isn’t always safe to leave babies and puppies alone together. Puppies can kill or seriously injure babies. That is a significant lesson to be learned when a puppy kills a 2 month old baby. No matter how gentle the puppy may seem, don’t leave puppies alone with babies. Puppies have a natural tendency to bite and chew, raising the risk of injury and a puppy can kill a baby unintentionally, with just one sharp nip or bite in the wrong place.

Also, children are often active and can bellow, grab, hit and act in ways that dogs or puppies fetch threatening. Also, a baby could accidentally flail out with its hand or fall towards a dog suddenly, provoking an attack. Since very young infants and babies can’t run away, they have little or no defense against a puppy attack.

How can puppy attacks on babies or children be prevented and cases like that of Zane Alen Earles of St Petersburg be reduced or eliminated?

From the video I saw of the shocked and totally distraught parents, it seemed obvious that this tragedy was totally unexpected. The parents were grief-striken and and appeared confused and baffled by the attack. I doubt that they are the only ones who’ve left babies in swings, perhaps even baby swings, with a puppy in the room.

While I’ve never left a puppy alone with a baby, I could easily find tons of videos on well-liked sites which show sleeping babies and puppies curled up together. They look adorable. They are adorable. But here is a key point: someone was filming those babies and puppies. Someone was there to intervene if the puppy woke up and became aggressive. Having a parent in the room when puppies are around babies or young children is important. It isn’t something that people may automatically rob is indispensable.

Education is also important to cleave the chances of a puppy killing a baby

People need to know how to sever dog bites. According to the American Veterinary Association Task Force, veterinarians could help provide some basic behavioral information about specific breeds and their general personality traits. Having owned a dachshund, known for being aggressive according to at least one report, I wrote about our experience here and how we had to effect some tough decisions about having a biting dog in the family: www.associatedcontent.com/article/861907/our_experience_as_owners_of_a_shorthaired.html

Sadly, we had to find a new home for our dog. Even after going through dog training session and classes with our dog and seeking outside help, we decided the dog was not valid around children.

Half of all dog bites happen with family dogs and children are the most common victims of dog attacks

Maybe you are surprised by this information – maybe not. However, some studies indicate that the most likely victims are boys between the ages of 5-9 years old – not babies. Running, hitting, yelling and screaming….even if not directed at the puppy…can be seen as threatening by obvious canines. Even though a baby was killed by a puppy in the St Petersburg case, the most vulnerable group is children, primarily boys. However, when it comes to puppies which attack babies, it is unclear whether most of those happen to female or male infants.

What parents need to know about puppies and babies:

Some fast info can greatly cleave the chances of a baby being hurt or killed by a puppy. Babies should never be left unsupervised with puppies, especially since some puppies aren’t exiguous but may actually be larger than an infant. Adults need to truly know and understand puppies and if one shows a tendency to be nervous or snappish, contemplate finding a new home for it. I would personally never have an aggressive or biting puppy within range of a baby, since even a watchful parent might not be able to get to the pup fast enough to prevent a serious bite. The hospital and emergency room costs for bites indicate that family pets can and do inflict damage on a fair number of people.

As a dog lover, I believe that dogs and people have an incredible connection. Unfortunately, taking that connection for granted and assuming that a baby is safe with a puppy can lead to tragic consequences. It is up to people to understand dogs, enjoy them as the wonderful companions they can be and be watchful when babies and puppies are playing together.

Sources:
Personal experience and research into the most aggressive dog breeds: www.associatedcontent.com/article/861907/our_experience_as_owners_of_a_shorthaired.html

1. A Community Approach to Dog Bite Prevention, American Veterinary Medical Association Task Force on Canine Aggression and Human-Canine Intervention,
Vet Med Toay, JAVMA, Vol 218, #11
2. Name of Infant Killed by Dog Released, June 29, 2008, KSWO, Lawton, Ok: www.kswo.com/Global/story.asp
3. Puppy Gnaws off Baby’s Toes; Parents Charged, Dallas Morning News, Dec 12, 2006
4. Dog Kills 2 Month Old Left Alone in Swing, KCTV 5 News, July 28, 2008 (with video next to it): www.kctv5.com/news/17024519/detail.html

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Grooming in general can be a very anxious time for your pet. They are away from their parents and in a place with loud barking dogs and strange smells. I want to wait on you prepare you pooch for this experience, because in my words “A groom will only be as good as the dog allows it to be!”

So many families are now adopting breeds of dogs, not smart the amount of time that will be needed to care for their dogs coat. In general: dogs need to be bathed at least once a month. Dogs with longer coats (Lhasa Apso, Yorkshire Terrior, Shih Tzu, Maltese, and Poodles just to name a few) need to have a full grooming every 4-6 weeks or more often if needed. They also require frequent brushing and trimming. The heavy shedders (Labrador, Husky, Chow and Golden Retrievers) also need to be groomed. More often in the warmer climates, to control the undercoat and excess shedding. Now that we know that basically ALL dogs require some grooming, lets learn how to get your pet ready.

Training your dog isn’t just about the basic commands, and potty training, you also have to train your pet how to behave for grooming. You want to begin young, 8-12 weeks of age is best. Most groomers will not except your dog until after they’ve had the first set of vaccines (about 10 weeks old). But it’s never to early to get your pup ready.I am going to use the Shih Tzu as an example.

(The picture is a Shih Tzu mix with Yorkshire Terrier and is about 4 months old). From the picture, he is a mess. The face needs to be trimmed down, paying special attention to gain close around the eyes (to prevent eye infections and injury). The body needs work. He isn’t matted (where the hair is knotted up and is tight to the skin), so he doesn’t have to be shaved, but his owner wants it short (easier to maintain).

In order to groom this dog, I would need to use clippers all over the body and scissors all over the face, legs, and feet. This is where the practice at home pays off. Here are some ample training tips for you to use at home.

1) Desensitizing- exposing the young pup to a certain stimulus and show that it will not cause damage or have any reason to fear. This is done by getting a pair of electric clippers (face trimmers work titanic, don’t utilize the blade though) and turning them on. Let the pup see them. While holding the pet close to you, rub the clippers all over the body. It is okay if he freaks out (don’t turn the clippers off, move the clippers farther away from the head until he relaxes) as you feel the tension ease, move the clippers closer to the head. Bustle the clippers over the legs and belly too. Once your pup is okay with the noises and vibrations then you can move to the next step.

2) The Scissors- I will say upfront, groomers scissors are sharp and one wrong move could be potentially dangerous. I always recommend practicing with kids scissors (plastic guard around the blade) because dogs have a tendency to snap at shiny objects in their face. Practice making the dog sit aloof and hold out it’s paw. Exhaust the scissors to comb the hair back and forth. Usually this part is tedious because the dog will want to leer what your doing. The ultimate goal is to keep the dogs attention on you, but not on the scissors. Nosey dogs get in the way of your view and acquire it easier to score prick.

The last part for getting your puppy ready for scissoring is getting the scissors close around the face. In order to have control over where your dog’s head goes you have to hold on to it. I seize to have the chin hair. You have the best control over the center of the face. Unfortunately most dogs don’t like to be held by the chin. But with practice the dog will soon rest his chin on your hand (it makes it SOO much easier). I found if you sit your dog down on the table (so his head is just below your shoulder level) gently hold the chin hair with one hand and hold a treat at his nose with the other hand, they will put the two together. Don’t make it into a tug-a-war. The dog feels the pain and pulls harder, thus creating more pain. It may take time, and in some cases the dog will never accept this acquire of restraint. All groomers do appreciate shiny in advance that the dog doesn’t like it too, that way we can try something else.

3) Brushing- This is the most important technique of grooming that the pup will have to accept. It will need to be brushed the rest of its life. The worst mistake anyone can make is playing with the brush like it’s a toy. It’s the worst thing when you are grooming a dog and they play fight to get the brush away from you. You also don’t want brushing to be a bad experience. Unfortunately brushing out knots and over brushing can be painful. A good rule is ; only 5 brush strokes in one area. Go around the body. There are many types of brushes that befriend different purposes. The slicker brush has many sharp points and is colossal for removing excess undercoat and general coat brushing, however it can irritate the skin. Brush your arm with it and mediate how much force to use. I also recommend using a metal comb on all breeds. The comb will go all the way to the skin and show where any tangles are.

For most breeds that require extensive grooming, it is recommend that the dog be brushed out once a day. Sadly a majority of dog owners don’t have the time to dedicate to the estimable grooming schedules. My best recommendations for brushing;

1- brush as often as possible

2- brush ALL of the dog (undercoat can pile up in areas missed)

3- if you cannot brush out a tangle (loose in coat) cut it with scissors, if its close to the skin, shave it.

4- fully brush out the dog (free of all mats and tangles) before the bath

4) The Bath- while the puppy is young it may need a bath more often. It is okay to bathe up to 3 times a week (use an oatmeal shampoo to prevent drying the skin out). The biggest complaint I get from people who bathe their pets at home is that “the dog still stinks after its bath!” My advice is to get the dog dry as quick as possible because the longer the dog’s oils sit on the fur wet, betters the chance that the “wet dog” smell will stick around. While your dog is young definitely get the blow dryer out (set on cool/low heat, and low power until your dog is used to it). Brush the dog out while you are drying him. There are many styling aide products like conditioners and detangling spray to help the grooming process. I use a scented cologne on the dogs after the bath too!

5) Going to the groomer- I personally like to talk to all of my clients. I want to know what they want, and the personality of their dog. Ask to meet your groomer if she isn’t there when you check in. Especially if you have a clear idea of what type of groom you want. That is another typical complaint, the owner writes on the grooming sheet, ” Summer Reduce, or Puppy Cut” and my idea of that cut could be totally different then what they really wanted. Build sure you and your groomer are on the same page! If you dog is planning on spending the day at the groomers, sometimes its best not to feed the dog first thing in the morning. The initial stress of being in the car and getting dropped off somewhere novel can invent your puppy ill. When scheduling the appointment check to see if any vaccinations are required and get out all the details about dropping off and picking up.

I hope this information is helpful and useful. If you have any other questions you can always call your local groomer. Just remember, your groomer is like a babysitting beautician. Make sure you are comfortable with the surroundings, because if you are at ease your pet will be too!

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Proper eye care is as indispensable for dogs as well as humans. Left untreated, or not treated soon enough, many sight diseases and conditions can result in reduced vision or even total loss of vision. Some breeds also have genetic predispositions to various peep conditions. It is vital that your dog has a yearly eye exam by your veterinarian to catch problems early.

Healthy canine eyes will be wide open, moist, and shining. The conjunctivas (the membranes that line the eyelids) will be a healthy pink color. The pupils will constrict when exposed to bright light and dilate in dim light. There will be no accumulation of mucous or other discharges, and no swelling in and around the eyelids. A dog with irritated or damaged eyes may be squinting or blinking, pawing at his eyes or rubbing his face on the floor. He may exhibit excessive tearing, restlessness, or whimpering. Any time you notice any changes in the appearance of your dog’s eyes, discharges, redness, swelling, or cloudiness call your vet immediately.

Scratches on the cornea are favorite, especially in breeds with bulging eyes. Trauma from foreign objects entering the eye can result in an ulcerated cornea and keratitis, an inflammation that can lead to cloudiness of the cornea and loss of vision. If you do remove a foreign object from your dog’s witness, flush the peer with water and consult a vet. A special stain can be assign into the dog’s watch to check for damage.

Conjunctivitis is an inflammation of the conjunctiva and is common to all breeds and mixed breed dogs. Symptoms include redness, squinting, and discharge from the eyes. Infections, scratches, environmental pollutants like dust or smoke can all cause conjunctivitis. The vet will usually prescribe a medicated eye ointment or drops to treat the condition.

Dogs have a third eyelid, a calm membrane that is located between the cornea and the inside corner of the eyelid. Its purpose is to dapper and lubricate the eye. The third eyelid is usually unnoticeable, but various eye conditions can cause the membrane to become inflamed and reddened. Injury, foreign objects, allergies, eye infections, protrusion of the tear duct (“cherry gape”), systemic diseases, and less common neurological conditions are all possible causes. Since it is a nonspecific symptom it requires veterinary evaluation to discover the underlying cause and necessary treatment.

Skin allergies may cause the skin around the eyes to itch. The dog may paw and rub at his eyes which become red and irritated. The allergy must be treated to relieve the problem.

The formation of cataracts is usually an inherited condition. A cataract is a cloudiness within the lens of the eye that won’t allow light to reach the retina causing partial or total loss of vision. Cataracts may only cover a small area and remain that way or they can grow quickly. Cocker Spaniels, Labrador Retrievers, Poodles, Huskies, Australian Shepherds, and Schnauzers are among the breeds with an inherited tendencey toward cataracts. Cataracts may develop in the dog at an early age or may have a late onset. Other less common causes of cataract formation include electric shock (such as from a lightning strike or chewing on an electrical cord), poor nutrition and retinal degeneration. As in humans cataracts that are causing vision loss can be surgically removed and replaced with an artificial lens. Cataract surgery can only be successful at restoring vision if the retinas are not diseased. A veterinary ophthalmologist should evaluate the condition of the retina before cataract surgery is performed.

Senior dogs may develop lenticular sclerosis which causes a cloudiness in the eye. The lens becomes hardened with age and the pupils may become a bluish-white or gray color. All geriatric dogs will develop this condition to some degree and there is no treatment. Lenticular sclerosis is not the same as a cataract and usually does not cause serious impairment of the dog’s vision until he becomes very old.

Glaucoma is an increase in pressure inside the eye caused by a build-up of fluid and can lead to partial or total blindness if not treated quickly. A change in the shape of the eyeball, redness, cloudiness, swelling, pain, excessive tearing and increased sensitivity to light are the symptoms of glaucoma. It can be inherited or result from injury. Medicine to relieve pressure inside the eye, laser surgery, or removal of the eyeball are treatment options depending upon the severity of the disease. Breeds with genetic tendencies to this condition include Basset Hounds, Cocker Spaniels and Chow Chows.

Progressive retinal atrophy (PRA) is a group of diseases that cause deterioration of the retina, the light-sensitive lining on the succor of the eyeball. It has no known treatment and may happen very gradually, although some breeds may be affected early in life. Night vision is lost first followed by loss of daytime vision. The dog’s pupils will become increasingly dilated and a cataract may perform in the lens. Siberian Huskies, Cocker Spaniels and Shih Tzus are most commonly affected by PRA.

Some breeds are at risk of developing eye problems because of their anatomical features. Exophthalmos is a well-liked condition in breeds such as the Pug, Boston Terrier, Shih Tzu and Pekingese with shallow eye sockets that cause the eyes to bulge out. More of the cornea is exposed leaving it more susceptible to injury and infection. If the dog is grabbed tightly by the scruff the eyes may prolapse (pop out). This is called proptosis and is a medical emergency. Proptosis may occur in any dog through a blunt trauma accident such as being hit by a car or stuck by an object like a baseball bat. In such cases the bones of the face and jaw may also be fractured.

Entropion is a body conformation in breeds that have excessive folds of skin around the eyes. The edge of the eyelids may roll inward so that the hair and eyelashes rub across the cornea causing chronic irritation. The condition is usually apparent by six months of age and may affect the upper or lower eyelid, or both, or one or both eyes. The condition can be corrected by cosmetic surgery to remove excess skin and muscle from the study area. Entropion can occur in most breeds but most commonly affects Pugs, Bulldogs, Rottweilers, Chow Chows, Shar-Pei, Boxers, Springer Spaniels, Poodles, Spacious Danes, and Saint Bernards.

Keratoconjunctivitis, or dry eye, is a caused by a deficiency in the production of tears which can result in corneal irritation and ulceration, scarring and eventually blindness if untreated. It can appear in one or both eyes. The dog will rub his eyes, squint and exhibit a sensitivity to light. The eyes may be reddened and have a thick mucous discharge. The condition is not curable but can be managed with artificial tears to make the dog more comfortable and avoid damage to the eyes. Breeds predisposed to keratoconjunctivitis include the Pekingese, Pug, Lhasa Apso, Yorkshire Terrier, Bloodhound, Boston Terrier, Miniature Poodle, Miniature and Standard Schnauzers, English Bulldog and Cocker Spaniel.

There are many other congenital, genetic and systemic causes of leer conditions and diseases in dogs. Your dog should have a yearly check-up that includes a thorough eye exam. Breeds with known inheritable eye conditions should have an eye exam in puppyhood to catch potential problems early. Some eye diseases are not preventable or treatable, but a dog with vision loss can do very well in a familiar environment. A caring owner should keep his vision-impaired dog’s surroundings as unchanged as possible. Don’t rearrange furniture in the house if you can avoid it. In an unfamiliar environment keep him on a short leash and never leave him unsupervised outdoors.

Before buying a puppy research the potentially inherited eye problems common to that breed. The Canine Eye Registry Foundation (CERF) was established to track inheritable eye conditions. Dogs with a permanent ID (tattoo or microchip) may be registered in their database as unaffected by genetic eye disease. An annual exam is required to remain certified, and dogs as young as eight weeks may be added to the registry. Ask if the puppy’s parents have been certified and registered with CERF as being free of eye disease. Dogs with eye conditions that may be genetic should not be bred.

Although genetic tendencies toward eye diseases and condition cannot be controlled there are steps you can take to preserve your dog’s eyes as healthy as possible. Never allow your dog to ride with his head out of the window of a vehicle or in the help of a pick-up unless he is wearing well-fitting dog goggles (Doggles) to keep dirt, insects and other debris from flying into his eyes. Don’t exhaust sticks or pointed objects as toys. Support your dog out of the room when using chemical sprays such as insecticides or cleaners. Take him to the vet right away if you notice any signs of discharge, excessive tearing, redness or other abnormalities, or if he is showing any signs of pain or discomfort.

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