Need the best weight loss tips for your fat dog? Victoria Stilwell stars on Animal Planet’s It’s Me or the Dog. But she also does a show, It’s Me or the Tubby Dog. In a particular episode on dog weight loss, dog training expert Victoria Stilwell visited three people who had very chunky dogs. According to the veterinarian, these dogs were double their normal weight.

Victoria Stilwell explained that despite what the dog owners feel is an act of love, overfeeding a dog is an act of cruelty in its maintain unique way. If you have an overweight dog, its life span is being prick dramatically short. If your dog is overweight and you aren’t feeding it much, you can bet that your fat dog is finding food on its own, such as the case with obese dog Hattie.

But maybe you deliberately feed your obese dog, such as the case with Gizmo. And then Jess’s owner seemed to provide much of the feeding without even realizing it, continually putting handfuls of food to the animal’s mouth while going about her business.

Hattie lives in a house with a woman and two young girls. The beagle, which was being fed just once a day in the a.m., was caught on videotape raiding food in the kitchen. This canine also has ripped open the girls’ lunch bags that were left on chairs. Solution? Keep food out of the dog’s arrive, and feed the pet controlled portions once in the morning and then again in the evening so that the animal doesn’t feel deprived.

To get her point across, Victoria Stilwell establish a large bowl of candy before the girls, then said they couldn’t have any. She then began eating brownies before the kids and offered them some, then pulled it away at the last moment, explaining that this temptation is what Hattie goes through every day when food is left within advance. The video showed Hattie getting its paws atop a kitchen counter and retrieving leftover food.

In the case of Gizmo the Chihuahua, Victoria Stilwell explained that the chocolate that Gizmo was getting was toxic. Furthermore, this was the only dog of the owners’ six total canines that never got any exercise. Gizmo was also routinely being fed arresting Indian food.

Victoria Stilwell showed Jess’s owner the equivalent, in human consumption, of what this dog was being fed every week. Laid out on a table were platefuls of food, enough to feed a football team. The owner was stunned.

Victoria Stilwell then began explaining the importance of adding vegetables and fruit to a dog’s diet.

These paunchy dogs were weighed about five months later. Jess and Hattie still had significant weight problems. Victoria had Jess’s owner walk around wearing an 11-pound sack on her back so that she could feel the strain that her 11-pound-overweight dog felt.

Hattie was sent to a “dog fat farm” for five weeks and came back a little slimmer, proving to her owner that this dog indeed can lose weight. But even after that, Hattie remained overweight. Victoria Stilwell then presented Hattie’s owner with blown-up photos of her two daughters’ faces — as they’d behold if the girls were fat. The girls thought it was hilarious, but their mother was moved to tears.

The demonstrate concluded with the kids and Victoria Stilwell on scooters (the kind where you propel with your feet while in a standing position), with a leashed Hattie in tow: Exercising your fat canine can be a fun activity.

So for anybody who has a fat dog and thinks nothing can be done about it, tune in to the next episode of It’s Me or the Stout Dog.

Click for more great doggie articles including best family dog, fat loss tips for a fat pooch, leashing, crating, etc.

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Bringing a modern dog into your household is very noteworthy like bringing a new child into the family. Like a child, a dog needs a great deal of structure and guidance initially. One tried and true method for accomplishing this is to utilize the crate training method. This is the process of providing your German shepherd with their own personal space by giving them a crate that they can spend time in. The crate has a door that you can shut which allows you to keep your dog in his crate (and out of trouble) during those times when you are not able to give him adequate supervision.

Benefits of Crate Training:

- Allows you to contain control over the dog’s environment including unsupervised access to certain parts of the house.
- Assists in housebreaking.
- Provides an easy plan to transport your dog in an environment that he is comfortable with.
- Provides your dog with a place of his own, which resembles the natural den dwellings canines use in the wild.

There is a variety of crates to choose from. You may select a hard plastic crate that provides more privacy and security. You may resolve to purchase a more open metal crate that allows you to crate your German shepherd without making him feel secluded. You can even find fabric crates that offer a cozier feel. All of these crates have their strong points. It is always a good idea to research the different crates available to you and recall the one that best meets the needs of you and your dog.

Make sure that the crate you choose has enough room for your dog to stand and turn around in, but for training purposes you don’t want to glean a crate that is much larger than that. The time needed for training can vary based on your dog’s age and adaptability. You will have much better success if you have exiguous training goals that provide your dog with many opportunities to make a training session successful.

Tips for building a bond between your German shepherd and his crate:

- Place the crate in a room where the humans of the house spend most of their time.
- Line the bottom of the crate with a towel or blanket that the dog can snuggle in.
- When placing your dog in the crate, always sing in a very cheerful voice.
- Entice him to enter the crate by himself with praise and treats. (Never force the dog to enter the crate!)
- Place a toy that your dog loves inside the crate.
- Feed your dog close to the crate.

Once your dog no longer seems disturbed when entering the crate, you are ready to start feeding him inside the crate. Start by placing his food just inside the crate. At each feeding, move the bowl further inside. When he seems comfortable eating his meals inside the crate, try shutting the door while he’s eating. In the beginning, let him out as soon as he has finished his meal. Then start gradually increasing the time he remains in the crate by a minute or two longer. It is well-known to originate sure he is happy during this time. He is still learning to like the crate, so you do not want him to feel trapped. However, if he does start crying you need to talk to him and calm him down, but don’t let him come out of the crate until he stops. If you immediately let him out as soon as he starts whining, he will learn that all he has to do is cry if he wants out of the crate.

Next you will start to condition your dog to start spending some non-meal time in the crate. Remember not to accelerate this or you will undo all of your hard work. Start by training him to enter the crate when asked to. You can do this by consistently using the same command and offering treats when done correctly. Initially you should consume most of your time sitting quietly reach the crate. Then start spending part of the training time in another room.
The key to success with this training method is patience and consistency. During each training session, start spending more time out of your dog’s site. Always start and waste the training session by remaining near the crate for a few minutes. And remember to only let your dog out of the crate while he is not whining or crying. When you feel like he will be fine in the crate for longer periods, you are ready to start leaving your dog in the crate when he sleeps at night or while you leave the house for short periods of time.

Tips for leaving your dog in his crate while you are away:

- Make sure he has plenty of drinking water
- Put a toy in the crate to keep him company.
- Do not construct your leaving an emotional affair. The longer your goodbye, the more he’ll dread it.
- When you return home, calmly let him out of the crate.
- So that the dog does not associate the entering the crate with your leaving, continue to put him in the crate periodically while you are home.

If you decide to crate your dog at night, it is a good idea to place the crate in your room so that he doesn’t feel completely isolated. Although this is also true for older dogs, it is especially important if your dog is less than six months old. Not only do they need the comfort of knowing that you are close by, but they also need to be able to let you know when they need to go outside. If your adult dog seems completely comfortable with sleeping in his crate, you can depart the crate to another station in your house if needed.

Although a crate can provide many amazing benefits to both you and your, make sure that you do not confine your dog too often. The crate is a small space and your dog may begin to feel trapped if he is not allowed plenty non-crate time. In other words, you shouldn’t crate your dog all day while you work and then again all night while you sleep. He needs more than just a few hours of freedom a day. Puppies should not be kept in crates for more than a few hours at any given time. And always make sure that you recall your dog outside when needed.
Crate training is just one of many methods you can use to train your dog, but many people have found that it is the diagram that works best for them and their canine friend. As long as you make the crate a trusted station that the dog is fond of, you will find that the crate can keep your dog safe and give you peace of mind while you are away. Training definitely takes time and energy, but if you are patient, consistent, and always remain positive, you will have a jubilant, great best friend.

Note: If your dog has separation dread, confining him to a crate is not a solution and is likely to aggravate the status. You can find alternative methods for working with separation anxiety from your veterinarian or through additional research.

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Grooming in general can be a very anxious time for your pet. They are away from their parents and in a place with loud barking dogs and strange smells. I want to help you prepare you pooch for this experience, because in my words “A groom will only be as good as the dog allows it to be!”

So many families are now adopting breeds of dogs, not knowing the amount of time that will be needed to care for their dogs coat. In general: dogs need to be bathed at least once a month. Dogs with longer coats (Lhasa Apso, Yorkshire Terrior, Shih Tzu, Maltese, and Poodles just to name a few) need to have a stout grooming every 4-6 weeks or more often if needed. They also require frequent brushing and trimming. The heavy shedders (Labrador, Husky, Chow and Golden Retrievers) also need to be groomed. More often in the warmer climates, to control the undercoat and excess shedding. Now that we know that basically ALL dogs require some grooming, lets learn how to get your pet ready.

Training your dog isn’t unbiased about the basic commands, and potty training, you also have to recount your pet how to behave for grooming. You want to start young, 8-12 weeks of age is best. Most groomers will not except your dog until after they’ve had the first set of vaccines (about 10 weeks old). But it’s never to early to get your pup ready.I am going to use the Shih Tzu as an example.

(The picture is a Shih Tzu mix with Yorkshire Terrier and is about 4 months old). From the characterize, he is a mess. The face needs to be trimmed down, paying special attention to get close around the eyes (to prevent eye infections and injury). The body needs work. He isn’t matted (where the hair is knotted up and is tight to the skin), so he doesn’t have to be shaved, but his owner wants it short (easier to maintain).

In order to groom this dog, I would need to exhaust clippers all over the body and scissors all over the face, legs, and feet. This is where the practice at home pays off. Here are some top-notch training tips for you to use at home.

1) Desensitizing- exposing the young pup to a determined stimulus and show that it will not cause harm or have any reason to awe. This is done by getting a pair of electric clippers (face trimmers work great, don’t use the blade though) and turning them on. Let the pup see them. While holding the pet close to you, rub the clippers all over the body. It is okay if he freaks out (don’t turn the clippers off, move the clippers farther away from the head until he relaxes) as you feel the tension ease, move the clippers closer to the head. Run the clippers over the legs and belly too. Once your pup is okay with the noises and vibrations then you can move to the next step.

2) The Scissors- I will say upfront, groomers scissors are sharp and one harmful travel could be potentially dangerous. I always recommend practicing with kids scissors (plastic guard around the blade) because dogs have a tendency to snap at shiny objects in their face. Practice making the dog sit still and hold out it’s paw. Use the scissors to comb the hair back and forth. Usually this share is dumb because the dog will want to see what your doing. The ultimate goal is to keep the dogs attention on you, but not on the scissors. Nosey dogs get in the way of your view and make it easier to get cut.

The last fraction for getting your puppy ready for scissoring is getting the scissors close around the face. In order to have control over where your dog’s head goes you have to hold on to it. I prefer to enjoy the chin hair. You have the best control over the center of the face. Unfortunately most dogs don’t like to be held by the chin. But with practice the dog will soon rest his chin on your hand (it makes it SOO much easier). I found if you sit your dog down on the table (so his head is just below your shoulder level) gently hold the chin hair with one hand and hold a treat at his nose with the other hand, they will put the two together. Don’t design it into a tug-a-war. The dog feels the pain and pulls harder, thus creating more pain. It may take time, and in some cases the dog will never accept this form of restraint. All groomers do indulge in knowing in advance that the dog doesn’t like it too, that way we can try something else.

3) Brushing- This is the most important technique of grooming that the pup will have to gather. It will need to be brushed the rest of its life. The worst mistake anyone can make is playing with the brush like it’s a toy. It’s the worst thing when you are grooming a dog and they play fight to get the brush away from you. You also don’t want brushing to be a bad experience. Unfortunately brushing out knots and over brushing can be painful. A good rule is ; only 5 brush strokes in one area. Move around the body. There are many types of brushes that assist different purposes. The slicker brush has many animated points and is great for removing excess undercoat and general coat brushing, however it can irritate the skin. Brush your arm with it and judge how much force to spend. I also recommend using a metal comb on all breeds. The comb will go all the way to the skin and display where any tangles are.

For most breeds that require extensive grooming, it is recommend that the dog be brushed out once a day. Sadly a majority of dog owners don’t have the time to dedicate to the proper grooming schedules. My best recommendations for brushing;

1- brush as often as possible

2- brush ALL of the dog (undercoat can pile up in areas missed)

3- if you cannot brush out a tangle (loose in coat) cut it with scissors, if its close to the skin, shave it.

4- fully brush out the dog (free of all mats and tangles) before the bath

4) The Bath- while the puppy is young it may need a bath more often. It is okay to bathe up to 3 times a week (exhaust an oatmeal shampoo to prevent drying the skin out). The biggest complaint I procure from people who bathe their pets at home is that “the dog still stinks after its bath!” My advice is to rep the dog dry as quick as possible because the longer the dog’s oils sit on the fur wet, betters the chance that the “wet dog” smell will stick around. While your dog is young definitely get the blow dryer out (set on cool/low heat, and low power until your dog is used to it). Brush the dog out while you are drying him. There are many styling aide products like conditioners and detangling spray to help the grooming process. I exhaust a scented cologne on the dogs after the bath too!

5) Going to the groomer- I personally like to talk to all of my clients. I want to know what they want, and the personality of their dog. Ask to meet your groomer if she isn’t there when you check in. Especially if you have a sure idea of what type of groom you want. That is another typical complaint, the owner writes on the grooming sheet, ” Summer Cut, or Puppy Cut” and my plan of that carve could be totally different then what they really wanted. Make certain you and your groomer are on the same page! If you dog is planning on spending the day at the groomers, sometimes its best not to feed the dog first thing in the morning. The initial stress of being in the car and getting dropped off somewhere recent can make your puppy ill. When scheduling the appointment check to look if any vaccinations are required and salvage out all the details about dropping off and picking up.

I hope this information is helpful and useful. If you have any other questions you can always call your local groomer. Just remember, your groomer is like a babysitting beautician. Design sure you are comfortable with the surroundings, because if you are at ease your pet will be too!

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Buying a new puppy can be one of the most delectable times of your life. It can also leave you stressed and sleepless! My “puppy” is one year old now and a fantastic established adult male dog. He has graduated from “puppyhood”. I have listed some tips for making the journey from puppyhood to adult dog an easy and fun experience for you.

Choosing a breed of dog for your family

What is the primary reason you are getting a dog? Is it for companionship, hunting, or protection? You must first decide this. Just because your friend Bob’s pit bull is really cute, doesn’t mean that’s the right type of dog for you. Do you have a house and back yard large enough for a larger dog, or are you willing to dart the dog several times per day? If not, maybe a slight lap dog is your tag to puppyhood. My personal opinion is that you can not beat a lab or lab mix for friendliness. I have a springer/lab and a labradoodle and they are the sweetest dogs I have ever had. Labs are also fantastic hunters, so if you would like a hunting companion, a Lab might be your ticket. Although it is very important to research your breeds, all breeds success relies on how you suppose a dog. You can philosophize a sometimes vicious breed to be sweet, conversely your little lap dog can bite the postal carrier’s foot!

Aquiring your puppy

It is important to choose a reputable puppy breeder, pet store, or shelter when choosing a puppy. Do your research. You don’t want to get a puppy from someplace that abused the dog or did not give he/she proper nutrition, shots, etc. Ask your friends or family members if they have gotten a dog from a particular source they trust. You should not only play with the puppy upon first seeing he/she to get a feel for the personality of the dog, but you should also ask the owner how the dog gets a long with others and what his/her personality has been like in the past.

Supplies that work

I title this category supplies that work, because you do not need to go out and buy Petsmart or PetCo to hold a puppy, but you will need the basics.

kennel

Before bringing the puppy into the home, you have to decide if you will put he/she into a kennel. There is nothing outrageous with a kennel. When properly trained, a dog will enjoy going into his kennel, because they know they can rest there. I would recommend kennels especially if you ever belief on traveling on the airlines with your dog, as he/she would already be used to it. Petsmart, PetCo, Wal-Mart, or your local pet store~they all have kennels. Shop around, as they can get spendy. Craig’s list might be an option for checking out used kennels. It’s not like a child’s car seat-you can buy used! Line your kennel with double thicknesses of paper to begin with, as the puppy will have many accidents before being fully potty trained. Yes, your puppy will cry when putting he/ she in the kennel. My suggestion? Wear earplugs. Sleep in a room far from their kennel. They need to derive used to it, and you can not spoil them too much (unless you feel like keeping Fido on the bed with you and cleaning up the urine stained sheets every morning!).

Food

Buy a decent puppy food. If you can’t afford it, you should have thought twice about getting a dog in the first place. Proper nutrition is key. My common brand of food is the Purina One. It works well for our puppy and our older dog. Steal the age specific type of food though.

Rope Toy

Puppies Admire to chew. It’s what they do. GIve them a toy so they don’t chew up your shoes. Rope toys work particularly well, because they have something to chew on and TUG.

Squeky Toys

If you “can’t resist” getting your dog a cute animal toy (they usually love squirrels, cats, and hedge hogs), get them a stuffed fabric one. They usually last noteworthy longer than the plastic ones. The reinforced canvas toys are even better.

Ball

A tennis ball is a necessity to start your disclose your dog to retrieve. Dogs love tennis balls. When my dog has a tennis ball he will not stop throwing it at me!

Treats

Treats are considerable, especially for training. Do not give your dog a treat every 5 minutes, though, or he/she will be trained to want treats continuously for the rest of their lives! I like to give my dogs a treat legal before bed. They both understand they have to go outside first and then they come in, obtain a treat, and go to bed. There are many treats out there, or you can make your own. Dog bisquits or jerkey treats are a common choice for my critters.

Rawhide Bones

Do you want a babysitter while you sit down to watch your favorite t.v. show? Retract some rawhide bones. Dogs adore them! Natural color are best because they won’t stain the carpet. They do get expensive, so most folks won’t give their pet one every day.

Kong

Another ultimate dog sitter! Plus, Kongs are most cost effective than rawhide bones. You ask what a kong is. A kong is a rubber oval ball with slots to insert treats, peanut butter, or liver paste. They usually come with liver paste in a can, but I recommend an inexpensive peanut butter. Dogs love peanut butter. Because it’s inexpensive and you can literally fill the kong with it, the kong will support a dog occupied for hours.

House Training

Training a puppy is frustrating and the worst part of owning one. The good news is that it really doesn’t take that long to properly house instruct a dog. The method we used was a combination of kennel training and impartial letting the puppy out many, many times when he was out of his kennel. When he did mess in the house we would say “No”, tap him on the nose, gently rub his nose in it, and let him outside immediately. Never abuse a puppy for messing in the house, but you must let he/she that they did nefarious. When you are sleeping, allow the dog to sleep in his kennel and get your rest. The puppy will mess in the kennel at first, but eventually when he is stop to being fully house trained, he will not mess in his kennel. He will not want to sleep in a dirty kennel.

Play Time

Play time is important for all puppies. Don’t get a puppy if you don’t have time for play. Enjoy your dog. Whether it’s playing with one of he above toys, or objective play “fighting”, take time for your dog each day. Even though you may have worked hard all day, the puppy might have been in a kennel all day and ready to play!

Walks

Start walking your puppy as soon as you can. At first, they won’t be long walks! That is okay; the puppy just needs to find used to being on a leash. As he/she gets older and you want to commence walking training, you might want to reflect several options to accomplish walking easier. There are shock collars and choke chains that you may use. It is your personal choice. While I have not personally used a shock collar, choke chains do work fairly well. Another option which we have found very helpful is the “gentle leader”, which is basicall a harnass for the nose that goes around the dog’s head and nose. The leash is attached to it, and when walking a dog, it will gently tug on the dogs head to preserve him walking straight.

The above tips may help you in your adventures of owning a puppy! Owning a puppy takes patience and notion, but is honestly one of the best times of your life. Enjoy!

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My dog has become my best friend. Morgan is not a pure bred German Shepherd but that’s not important to me. I rescued her at my local SPCA when she was about 13 months old. Her outmoded family loved her but she had parvo as a pup which was very expensive to treat. Then new baby came into the family so they were forced to give her up. She came with notes and letters from the family’s children so I know she was very much loved at that home.

Due to her physique I thought she was section lab or Doberman but it turned out she is share Burmese Mountain dog. The first time I took her for training, the trainer immediately recognized her mixed breed.

Here are some tips I’ve learned about keeping Morgan healthy and happy.

Keep your dog’s weight down. Heavier dogs have more health problems including arthritis and heart trouble. A good diet and daily exercise works well to keep the weight down.

Seek the vet regularly. This will keep your pet current with shots and uncover any possible health problems when it’s still early enough to treat. Some of the health problems with German Shepherds are glaucoma, retinal atrophy, epilepsy, hemophilia and a blood disorder called Von Willebrand’s disease. A very serious problem requiring immediate emergency care is torsion, or, stomach bloating.

Take the time to brush your dog daily. German Shepherds shed constantly all year long and heavier when the undercoat comes out twice a year. I’m fortunate my pet is a mixed breed because she doesn’t shed as much.

This breed only needs to be washed infrequently and it can be done at home. If you consume, some of the fancier pet stores (like my PetSmart) have bathing areas you can rent for a small fee. I’ve found that is the easiest way to wash Morgan.

As you’ve probably found out, they are very intelligent and love to please us. Train him/her firmly and consistently. Morgan was the “example dog” every night during training – no, not for being good but for being the most rambunctious of the lot. You and your pet might also enjoy agility training and fly ball.

You can keep your pet inside and/or outside. Mine is outside during the day but comes in at night to sleep. They like to be with their pack (that’s us, their family) so they might prefer being inside. Remember to watch the weather and bring your dog inside if it gets very hot and he/she has little shade. We had 10 days last summer with 110+ degree-days so I would bring her in for several hours at a time. I have a current back yard without remarkable shade.

Try to exercise at least an hour or so each day, playing with and walking your German Shepherd. They love the attention and it will help avoid other activities they do when they want attention (chewing, digging, etc.) I was gone for three days last week and came home to find a new plant (one that was thriving) dug out of the ground and dead. Two weeks ago she had dug out my strawberry plant. As a salesperson I’m on the road most days and because it’s very hot in the spring, summer and fall, I cannot take her with me. So, she digs to get my attention. But, she’s still my best friend and I appreciate her dearly.

Delight In precious time with your pet.

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